Our tips are for cool-season lawns like bluegrass and fescues.
Lawn calendar
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
soil test
aerate
topdress
fertilize
lime
seed
mow
water
annual weeds
perennial weeds
grubs
disease
Routine Care
Fertilize established lawns in mid-September according to soil test results. If you don’t test, apply 12-4-8 or 16-4-8 at a rate of 1 lb nitrogen per 1000 square feet. Fall is a good time to apply lime if your soil test indicates that it is needed.
Mow to 3–3½ inches.
Supplement rainfall as needed to provide 1 inch of water weekly. This should wet the soil to a depth of 4–6 inches. You can check by probing the soil with a screwdriver.
Aeration (coring) loosens the soil and improves water and air infiltration. September is the best time because turfgrass roots are actively growing, speeding recovery. Use a device that removes soil cores. Chop up the cores and, if possible, distribute them by dragging with a span of chain-link fence or a mat. Moistening the soil the day before makes the job easier and more effective.
Because fall is the true growing season for cool-season lawns, it is the best time to renovate and seed. Lawns seeded in the spring die in the summer because their roots don’t establish before hot weather arrives. Learn about lawn renovation
Seed anytime from the beginning of September to mid-October. For best results, wait until nighttime temperatures are in the mid-60s but before leaves are covering the lawn. Use a blend of turf-type tall fescues at 6 lb per 1000 square feet. Apply a starter-type fertilizer and keep the seedbed moist with light watering several times per day. Germination normally occurs in 10–21 days. Do not let the seedlings dry out.
Before seeding, aerate (core) your lawn to reduce soil compaction and control heavy weed populations.
